Twice every year, Siena (Italy) lives and breathes the
Palio. If you do not know what this Palio is, with roots in
medieval times, look here or on other websites devoted to the race's
history, its
peculiar rules and other aspects :
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palio_di_Siena But the Palio of Siena is so much more than just a
90 second bareback horse race on a magnificent medieval square (Piazza del Campo) in one of Tuscany’s most beautiful cities. The Palio race is run between the quarters of the city ("
contrade" in plural).
To the
Senesi, they are like extended but close-knit families, involving young and old in social activities. In these
contrade, the build-up towards the race lasts all year. Much is at stake. Emotions flow freely.
The last week before each Palio is a strictly organized, intense succession of
rituals and citywide festivities, including lottery (!) distribution of the horses, the hiring of mercenary jockeys ("
fantini" in plural) and several trial races called "
prove". A number of rituals involve the
drapellone (the unique silk banner, always produced by a famous artist, that is awarded to the victorious
contrada). Every
contrada has its own proud
museum for the previously won
drappelloni and other Palio paraphernalia.
During that week, the
contrade are alive with
open air dinners and many
intimate moments : the
capitano and his team discussing race strategy;
alfieri and
tamburi practicing their show, etc.
On race day, la
Messa dei fantini takes place on the Piazza, followed by the final
prova. Contrade members of all ages get dressed for the
corteo storico (a big historic pageant that precedes the race). Every horse and rider is blessed in the
contrada church.
And then it is time for the
comparse (contrada companies-at-arms) to roam the city to gather for the corteo storico that starts at the Duomo. The actual race is followed by everyone, in the Piazza or on any screen throughout the city, with national TV broadcasting.
When a rider (or indeed: even just a horse...) is victorious,
jubilant celebration erupts for the victor. The winners descend first on Provenzano church. Later, the wine flows all night long in the victorious contrada, where the bells will not stop chiming until morning.
End June and early July of this year, I had the honour and privilege to enjoy the hospitality of the
Imperiale Contrada della Giraffa. I was allowed to photograph their activities as documentary photographer.
Apart from Giraffa territory and the Piazza, I also visited a few other
contrade, and got a taste of the victory celebrations of Lupa
contrada.
This documentary series aims to present a comprehensive and most often very up-close
“fly-on-the-wall” picture of the whole Palio week (
except the preparation of Piazza del Campo which happened before my arrival).
Later, a second series will focus on the people of Giraffa (“
Gente della Giraffa”) and their experiences in Palio week. This will be in vibrant
colour. Maybe a third series will follow, offering a more extensive and colour look at just to the equestrian action.
